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When compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. However, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.